Fabrics

A systematic process for evaluating fabric quality and identifying defects before garment production

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BQIS Fabric Quality Control Procedure

Fabric inspection helps understand quality in terms of color, density, weight, printing, measurement, and other quality criteria prior to garment production.

BQIS offers fabric inspection services for all types of fibers including cotton, denim, neoprene, microfiber, velvet, knitting, satin, nylon, bamboo, wool, silk, canvas, carbon, leather and more.

Also verifies your fabric quality, specifications, functions, safety, and compliance with relevant standards applicable to your product’s destination.

Fabric Quality Control Approach

Quality control of fabric requires considerable hands-on expertise and a keen focus on detail. BQIS technical engineers use the industry standard four-point grading method, along with input on your main concerns and specific requirements for each product, to build a comprehensive fabric inspection checklist. BQIS inspectors then conduct a series of measurements and on-site checks to verify the quality of mass production based on your Acceptable Quality Limits, international regulations, and safety standards.

Some tests on fabrics require a controlled environment to analyze their compliance with the standards and regulations of your destination country. Our BQIS inspectors select products from each batch and forward them to an accredited laboratory for processing

Main tests performed during an inspection of fabrics

• Packaging check
• Smell test

• Color fastness test
• Color shading test

• Bow check
• Hand feel test

How Does 4-Point System Work?

The 4-Point System provides a means of defining defects according to their severity by assigning demerits or penalty points.

The system is under ASTM D5430-93, a standard test method for determining the tensile properties of fabrics. It is published by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and is commonly used in the textile industry.

In the 4-point system, defects in both the warp/weft or course/wale directions of a fabric will be assigned penalty points using the following criteria:

Size of Defects	Penalty Points
Defects up to 3 inches	1
Defects > 3 inches < 6 inches	2
Defects > 6 inches < 9 inches	3
Defects > 9 inches< 9 inches	4

However, not all defects are equal. At Bureau Veritas, defects such as holes, dropped stitches, and torn selvage will be assigned 4 penalty points regardless of the size of the defects. No more than 4 points will be assigned to any one linear meter of yard of fabric.

Types of Defects

BQIS inspectors are trained to spot and identify different types of defects during the fabric inspection. The findings of the defects will be included in the inspection report. Here are some of the defects you will commonly find:

Defects	Descriptions
Abrasion Mark	Area damaged by friction.
Color Stain	The undesired pickup of color by fabric when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid medium, that contains dyestuffs or coloring material not intended for coloring the fabric, or by direct contact with other dyed material from which color is transferred by bleeding or sublimation.
Crease Mark	Visible streak in fabric caused by folding.
Cut Selvage	Cuts or breaks in the selvage area only.
Dropped Stitch	Knits: Unknitted stitch.
Dyestain	An area of unintended discoloration due to uneven absorption of a colorant.
Hole In fabric	An imperfection where one or more yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an aperture. Out of Register In printed fabric, colors or patterns not correctly positioned.
Run	Series of dropped stitches.
Selvage Mark	Lengthwise crease near selvage caused by folding or doubling of fabric edge.
Snag	Yarn or piece of yarn pulled from the surface of a fabric.
Spot	Small discoloration on surface of a fabric. Can be caused by dying, foreign matter (dirt, oil, water) etc.

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